In a tasteful marriage between Korean cuisine and western concepts, Benu delivers something more than food to the table – Chef Corey Lee and his staff deliver a balanced experience of traditions kept and boundaries broken.
My three-star Michelin dining experience begins by walking through a beautiful courtyard. At first glance, the greenery on the walls and the golden urns spaced across the concrete pavers simply serve to establish the restaurant’s atmosphere. But after a conversation with the chef, I discover that the courtyard isn’t just for aesthetics – it’s a functional space.
The greenery growing up the walls are jasmine, cut off by the staff to be used in various dishes. Hanging from the rafters are fermenting soy beans that will be made into soy sauce. And the golden urns contain ingredients in various stages of fermentation, such as kimchi.
Approaching the front door, the host already knows my name and offers to check my belongings. The staff is impeccably dressed in full black regalia and carry themselves with perfect posture and welcoming smiles.
My chair is pulled out for me when I am seated, and my water glass is immediately filled (it’s important to note that the staff never allows my water glass to become empty – someone refills it as soon as it reaches half capacity).
The tasting menu is preset by the chef, so I sit back to enjoy a choko of sake and the minimalist décor. The first dish that is presented is a 1000-year-old Quail Egg on a pad of preserved ginger puree, surrounded by a vibrant green sauce made from cabbage juice.
Shortly after, the staff brings out pork belly and oyster in a kimchi wrap. This small delicacy is meant to be eaten with your fingers in one swift bite. The shell’s concentrated kimchi flavor balances out the savory pork and oyster for one delicious bite. Other small delicacies include a mussel stuffed with glass noodles and vegetables, and tempura shrimp wrapped in jellyfish and seaweed.
After the small delicacies portion of the meal, my server brings out a chicken leg stuffed with abalone. The real treat in this dish is the hint of bacon within the tender, juicy chicken leg. It’s hard to pick out a favorite course, however if I was forced to choose this would be a top contender.
Or I would choose the Lobster Coral Xiao Long Bao. With incredible attention to detail, the soft dough is intricately pleated along the seam. As the dumpling is filled with hot broth, I use my chopsticks to puncture a small hole near the top, allowing steam to escape before eating. Rich and savory, this item is worth the visit in itself.
The courses continue one after another: faux shark fin soup made with steamed egg white custard and studded with crab; bread served with ginseng infused butter; caviar with hand-pressed sesame oil; monkfish liver steamed in rich wine; sea urchin marinated in fermented crab sauce; barbequed quail on a black truffle bun; veal short rib; omija and olive oil; and finally, milk pudding with salted caramel smoked with peat.
Speaking with Chef Lee back in the kitchen, he explains that every first-time diner receives the same tasting menu. Benu’s advanced reservation system saves your information so you will not be served any of the same dishes on your second or third visit. This is why it is important to make a reservation at least a week in advance so the staff is adequately prepared.
With every visit a unique dining experience, I can’t wait to see what will be on the menu next time.